[Separate No. i6€ 



James Allen Reed: First Permanent Settler in 
Trempealeau County and Founder 
of Trempealeau 

By Dr. Eben D. Pierce 



[From the Proceedings of the State Historical Society of Wisconsin for 
1914, pages 107-1 17] 



Madison 
Published for the Society 

^9^5 



[Separate No. i6o] 



James Allen Reed: First Permanent Settler in 
Trempealeau County and Founder 
of Trempealeau 

By Dr. Eben D. Pierce 



[From the Proceedings of the State Historical Society of Wisconsin for 
1914. pages 107-117] 



Madison 

Published for the Society 

1915 



F's^n 



0. flf 0. 

JUL 30 19^5 




James Allen Reed 



James Allen Reed 



James Allen Reed: First Permanent Settler 

in Trempealeau County and Founder 

of Trempealeau ^ 



By Dr. Eben D. Pierce 

Among the restless Scotch-Irish pioneers that Kentucky, in 
the early day, sent into Wisconsin and the Northwest, there 
are few with a life so picturesque and full of interesting inci- 
dents as James Reed. Born in Kentucky in 1798, he early be- 
came part of the rough, hardy life of the frontier. As a child 
he heard with eager delight the stirring tales related by Indian 



' The material for the following sketch was furnished largely by 
Antoine Grignon, who was a stepson of Reed, and had a longer ac- 
quaintance Avith him than any person now living. For Grignon's 
'Recollections", see Wisconsin Historical Society Proceedings, 1913, 
110. Others who have furnished recollections of Reed are: John 
Perkins and Mrs. Mary House, children of Reed's friend, Charles H. 
Perkins Sr. and Mrs. Charles H. Perkins Jr., a daughter-in-law; Mrs. 
John Reed, daughter-in-law of the pioneer ; and iMary Brandenberg, who 
wrote down at his own dictation the account of Reed's trip into Iowa on 
a French train. C. R. McGilvray, whom Reed taught to trap beaver, 
furnished many interesting incidents; also S. D. Noyes, William Hut- 
tenow, William Bennett, Mrs. Charles Cleveland. Mrs. Louise Wilson 
kindly lent me a daguerreotype of Reed, the only picture of the old 
pioneer known to be extant. 

Among references in print that have been consulted are the volumes 
of the Wisconsiti Historical Collections, and L. H. Bunnell, ^Yinona and 
its Environs on the Mississippi in Ancient and Modern Days (Winona, 
Minn. 1897). Data concerning Reed's career as a soldier and a farmer 
for the Sioux at Winona have been furnished by the War Department, 
and the Bureau of Indian Affairs at Washington. 

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fighters, trappers, and traders who enjoyed the hospitality of 
his father's fireside; tales of thrilling encounters and hair- 
breadth escapes from the wild beasts and still wilder red men of 
the forest. Like most boys of the frontier he was unlearned in 
the lore of books, though he could read and write, but in the 
school of nature he early became an adept. To him the great, 
deep forest stretching away to the unexplored westland, was an 
open book ; and he could follow a trail, wield the hunting knife, 
or throw the tomahawk with more cunning than the native In- 
dians, while as a rifle shot he acquired, even on the western 
frontier where every man is an expert, wide renown. 

When a mere stripling Reed resolved on a military career, 
and the War of 1812 furnished his fighting blood and martial 
spirit an outlet, some claiming that youthful as he was he saw 
service in the latter part of that war. Some time after the close 
of the W^ar of 1812 Reed enlisted in the regular army, and was 
sent to Fort Crawford at Prairie du Chien. Here his skill 
with the rifle, his knowledge of woodcraft and Indian customs, 
and his utility as a scout, interpreter, and courier quickly at- 
tracted the attention of his superiors, and before his term of en- 
listment had expired he had risen to the rank of sergeant. Al- 
though Reed was an excellent soldier, his greatest service to the 
government was in the capacity of scout, and long after his 
term of enlistment was over he was employed by the com- 
mander at Fort Crawford to conduct bodies of soldiers through 
the wilderness on expeditions against the Indians. 

During his army life Reed married a Potawatomi woman, by 
whom he had five children, Elizabeth, Joseph, Mary, Madeline, 
and James. Upon her death in 1830 he was married a second 
time to a Menominee mixed blood, widow of the trader, Russell 
Farnham. Two children, Margaret and John, resulted from 
this union. He later married the widow of Amable Grignon, 
whose son Antoine Was the chief source of this biography. 

While in the United States army service at Fort Crawford 
Reed learned the carpenter trade and helped in the construction 
of some of the frame buildings of Prairie du Chien. He found 
plenty of work both in the army and outside, but he had planned 
to become a fur trader. Accordingly, after getting his discharge, 
he entered the employ of the American Fur Company, devoting 

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James Allen Reed 

liis time to hunting, trapping, and trading with the Indians. 
He was stationed for over a year at Red Cedar, Iowa, where he 
opened a trading post among the Indians, sending his accumu- 
lated furs overland by cart to Prairie du Chien. During the 
absence of his cart-train he had but a single companion, a Sioux 
boy about sixteen years old. One morning while this boy was 
alone a band of fifteen Sauk warriors passing by murdered him, 
and were in the act of scalping him when Reed appeared on the 
scene. Angered at the brutal murder of his helpless Indian boy 
he turned his rifle on the fleeing band of Sauks, and fired, kill- 
ing one of the warriors. He then called out to the Indians, 
daring them to return and fight like braves, in loud and angry 
tones naming them cowards and murderers. They continued 
their flight, however over a distant ridge, being fully convinced 
that the trapper not only was in earnest but was an excellent 
shot as well. Reed, expecting the Sauks to return that night 
and give him trouble, prepared everything for a surprise, sleep- 
ing with his loaded rifle on his arm ready for instant use. For 
weeks afterwards he was entirely alone at the trading post. Years 
later he told Grignon it was the most lonely and hazardous po- 
sition of all his life, living in constant expectation of hostile In- 
dians, and traveling on perilous expeditions through the sur- 
rounding territory in quest of furs. He had no further 
trouble with the Indians while at Red Cedar, but after remain- 
ing a year he decided to return to Prairie du Chien where he 
again entered the government service. During the Black Hawk 
War he was engaged to help take a keel boat up the Mississippi 
to Bad Axe. Returning to Prairie du Chien he was sent as a 
courier with important messages to the army, which was near- 
ing Bad Axe. He traveled the distance on a pony and arrived 
in time to witness the battle that ensued.^ 

Although in the government service, Reed always denounced 
the cruel, unrelenting slaughter of the half-starved, dispirited 
Indians, who had tried in vain to surrender to the army oppos- 
ing them, and were peaceably withdrawing with their wives 
and children to the west side of the Mississippi. During the 
battle Reed saw two Indian maidens embrace each other and 



= See account in Wis. Hist. Colls., XII, 257-261. 

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Wisconsin Historical Society 

jump into the river, and as they rose to the surface of the Ava- 
ter the soldiers fired on them and the crimson streaks of blood 
mingling with the tawny waters showed where their lifeless 
bodies sank from sight. It Avas a pitiful sight to watch the 
slaughter of the helpless women and children of the unfortu- 
nate Sauks, and what added to the horror was the appearance 
of the Sioux, who had been notified of the coming conflict, on 
the opposite side of the river, finishing the slaughter by shoot- 
ing, tomahaAvking, and scalping the poor, bedraggled Indians 
as they landed on the Minnesota shore. 

When the struggle Avas over Reed started on his pony for 
Prairie du Chien, and Avhile riding through the Avoods he came 
upon a lone Sauk AA^oman Avho had made her escape from the 
soldiers and ill-fated Indians and Avas hiding in the woods in a 
half-starved condition. Reed spoke kindly to her, assuring her 
of his protection, and dismounting gave her a portion of food 
from his saddlebags. After she had eaten he helped her into 
the saddle, and Avith his rifle in hand led the Avay along the 
homeAvard trail. They took turn about riding and walking un- 
til they reached Prairie du Chien, stopping only at night to 
camp, and at intervals for refreshments. When their desti- 
nation Avas reached Reed turned his captive over to the mili- 
tary authorities, Avho in turn sent her to join her people in Iowa. 

After the Black Hawk War Reed AA^as sent among the loAva 
Indians on business for the government. He started on his 
French ti'ain, Avhich convsisted of a sled made of oak hewn from 
the tree, and fastened together Avith Avooden pegs. The sled, 
about three feet wide and seven feet long, was just Avide enough 
to seat a man comfortably. It had heWn slabs fastened from 
runner to runner, on Avhich Avas placed a pair of blankets rolled 
up in a tanned buckskin. Tavo poles were attached to the 
front top of the runners and to these the Indian pony was 
hitched by means of a harness made of buckskin straps, sewed 
Avith deer sineAvs; the Avhippletree was fastened Avith the same 
material. "I started on my train, "said Reed, "taking my old 
flintlock rifle and ammunition to last the trip, for I was ex- 
pected to kill game enough for my living. On my way I 
chanced to kill a big, fat bear, and when I reached the Indian 
camp and exhibited my game a howl of joy went up among the 

nioT 



James Allen Reed 

redskins. We dressed and cooked the bear Indian fashion, 
inaking soup of him, which I ate with the natives in their 
manner, and in order to show my appreciation I ate the last 
drop of soup and then licked the dish as the Indians did. That 
lick gained for me and the government our point ^vithout a 
thought of bloodshed, and after shaking hands with my Indian 
friends I took my departure on my French train for Prairie du 
Chien." 

The next three years after his return from Iowa Reed occu- 
pied himself as tavern keeper in Prairie du Chien. His reputa- 
tion as a fearless hunter and Indian trader, and the many hardy 
adventures he had experienced, equipped him with a fund of 
frontier stories as thrilling as the varied life of that day af- 
forded. He could speak several Indian dialects, and his long 
association with the French at the Prairie settlement enabled 
him to acquire a fair command of their language. To the 
French he was known as Reed VAmericain; while by many, on 
account of his military record, he was called Captain Reed. 

Around the fireplace in his tavern was often gathered an in- 
teresting throng of hunters, trappers, traders, and Indians, 
and the usual town loafers. Manj'^ strange tales of frontier 
life and backwoods lore were told, and wanderers from far up 
the Mississippi brought glowing accounts of the northern 
country Avhere game and fur bearing animals abounded, 
and Avhere Indians roamed wild and undisturbed by white 
settlers. The longing for the wild, free life of the trapper 
caused Reed to abandon tavern keeping and resume his employ 
with the American Fur Company. While on his journeys up 
and down the Mississippi in the interests of the fur company, 
as Avell as when in the government service, he had remarked 
the beauty of the situation of Trempealeau and had decided 
to locate there whenever a favorable opportunity should offer. 
Circumstances delayed him until 1840, and gave his son-in-law, 
James Douville, the credit of being the first settler. However, 
Reed had chosen the site for a town and had in view plans for 
its future settlement some time before Douville came. In the 
summer of 1840 he built a log house on his well-selected site a 
few rods from the bank of the Mississippi and hither he brought 
his family, resolved to make this his permanent home. One 

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day while hewing logs with his broadax for the construction of 
his building a drunken Sioux by the name of Face-on-Fire came 
along and began to abuse him. Reed said very little but at last, 
the taunting continuing, his temper gave way, and raising his 
broadax he threw it at the Indian. It came so dangerously 
near the Sioux that he was frightened and left, not daring to 
show himself again for days. 

Reed, after finishing his log house, followed his favorite voca- 
tion of hunting and trapping in the Trempealeau Valley. A few 
months after his arrival his wife died, and within two years he 
married the widow Grignon, who was a relative of the Sioux 
chief Wabashaw. Her relationship with the noted chief gave 
Reed great prestige among this band of Sioux, which together 
with his experience with the Indians while in the government 
sendee secured for him the position of government farmer for 
Wabashaw 's band of Indians who were then living on the site 
of Winona, Minnesota. He entered on his new occupation as 
government farmer and storekeeper sometime in October, 1842, 
and two years later with the help of L. H. Bunnell, erected the 
first house built in Winona. This was a government storehouse, 
constructed of white ash logs. 

In May, 1844, an incident occurred at Winona which illus- 
trates the fearlessness of Reed in a crisis. He had learned 
from the trader La Bathe,'' an eye witness, of flie murder of an 
old friend, Sheriff Lester, by a Sioux of Little Crow's band 
named O-mah-haugh-tay. Chancing to be in the tent of his 
relative, Wabashaw, when the murderer dropped in for a visit, 
he was angered at the consideration with which the fellow was 
received, and declined the courtesy of smoking the pipe which 
was offered him. The murderer, emboldened by the success of 
his crime, seized the pipe and himself presented it to Reed, 
Avith unfeigned malignity in his eye. Reed, whose resentment 
was kindled into flame by this fresh act of audacity, dashed 
the pipe to the ground, and denouncing the Sioux as a dog, in- 
formed him there was one white man who did not fear him. It 
was the gravest insult that could be offered to an Indian, but 



= Por a brief account of this trader see Wis. His. Soc. Proceedings, 
1906, 253. 

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James Allen Reed 

0-niah-haugh-tay was cowed, and soon after took his departure 
from the village. 

While engaged as government farmer at Wabashaw's village, 
Keed kept in touch Avith his Trempealeau settlement, which 
was known as Reed's Town or Reed's Landing, and which con- 
sisted of some eight or ten French families and a few French 
and Indian mixed bloods. The Trempealeau bluffs and adjoin- 
ing prairie afforded an excellent stock range for Reed's horses, 
hogs, and cattle which he had brought from Prairie du Chien, 
and the swdne proved to be good rattlesnake huntei^s, killing 
and eating many of the Winnebago's sacred serpents. 

Reed remained in the employ of the government as farmer 
for the Indians until 1848, when negotiations were entered into 
for the removal of Wabashaw's band of Sioux from their old- 
time village at Winona. After their removal Reed returned to 
Trempealeau and was occupied in tending his stock and in hunt- 
ing and trapping. He kept tavern for a while, and manj^ a 
weary traveler and homeseeker found a hospitable welcome at 
his fireside. His tavern was a large log structure located near 
the bank of the Mississippi known simply as Reed's Place; af- 
ter he sold out it became the Washington Hotel. 

At the first town election held April, 1851, at La Crosse, 
James Reed was elected justice. Trempealeau was then in- 
cluded in La Crosse County. Whether there were any cases 
for the justice court during Reed's term of office is doubtful. 
Differences were likely to be settled in the more primitive way of 
hand to hand encounters, and if this failed an appeal to the 
higher court of fireamis was taken. 

While in Trempealeau Captain Reed had occasional differ- 
ences with the Indians. He burned the old mission house* at 
Trempealeau Bay to keep the Winnebago from catching and 
riding his horses which gathered in its shelter, thu^ galling 
their backs with heavy loads. 

One autumn day in the early fifties a number of Indians 
came to Trempealeau to do some trading, and brought along the 
usual number of dogs. Reed had some hogs running loose near 
his house ; the dogs began to chase them and succeeded in kill- 
ing one of their number and injuring several others. When 



* Ibid, 251, 252. 

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Reed saw the Indians coming he took down his rifle and, walk- 
ing into the yard, shot seven of the dogs ; this done he returned 
to the house, reloaded his gun, and waited results. Nothing 
niore was heard of the Indians that day, but the next morning 
about fifteen of their number returned and began grumbling 
about their dogs being kiUed and demanded pay for them. 
Heed listened a while to their complaints, then becoming angry 
lie took down his rifle and pointed into the muzzle saying, "I 
have something in here which I will give you as pay if you 
don't all clear out of here at once." Without waiting for the 
contents of the well-known rifle the redskins fled, knowing the 
old trapper was in earnest. As a result of this trouble one of 
the Winnebago, named Hakah, plotted to kill Reed and w^ent 
so far as to hide in ambush behind a pine tree along the trail 
Miiere Reed came after his horses every evening towards sun- 
down. When Reed appeared the Indian noticed the well- 
known rifle slung across his shoulder, which so unnerved Hakah, 
that he kept in his hiding place until his enemy had passed, not 
AvTshing to take a chance of missing Reed and being killed for 
his pains. 

In 1853 Reed sold his Trempealeau property to Benjamin 
Healy and moved with his family onto a piece of government 
land in the Little Tamarack. This was in some respects a bet- 
ter situation for one of his temperament, as it was in closer 
proximity to the most desirable hunting ground. From here 
he took the trail over the bluff on many a long hunting expedi- 
tion. 

AYhen George Luce, formerly of Galesville, was a boy he went 
on a hunting trip up the Trempealeau Valley with Captain 
Reed. They camped in one of the valleys near the present town 
of Arcadia, and as several hunting parties of Indians were in 
the immediate vicinity Reed deemed it advisable to take pre- 
cautions against surprise, inasmuch as the Indians looked upon 
the w^hite hunter wdth jealous eyes. Therefore the men set to 
w^ork digging a hole in the ground for their night's camp fire. 
After completing this they cooked their supper, and enjoyed it 
smoking hot from the fire. 

After nightfall the sound of howling wolves disturbed the 
hunters and as the night wore on the howling became louder 

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James Allen Reed 

and more hideous; apparently the campers were surrounded by 
wolves, but Reed began to mistrust the origin of the sounds and 
called out loudly in the Winnebago language, "If you want 
our scalps come and get them." At this the howling stopped. 
Reed and Luce sat up all night with their rifles across their 
knees, expecting the Winnebago wolves to return, but no more 
disturbance occurred, and after finishing their hunt the men 
returned home in safety. Luce told of Reed's skill as a hunter 
and said the old trapper always rode with his rifle across the 
pommel of his saddle Indian fashion. 

At the time of the New Ulm massacre in Minnesota during 
the early part of the Civil War, the people of Trempealeau and 
vicinity were one day thrown into a panic of fear by the an- 
nouncement that a large party of hostile Sioux was advancing 
from Black River upon Trempealeau, With one impulse the 
settlers turned to Reed for protection and the wary old trapper 
responded with energy. He knew the cunning savage and did 
not propose to be taken by a night surprise. All night long he 
patrolled Trempealeau Prairie, mounted on his favorite pony 
and carrying his trusty rifle ready for instant use, but it turned 
out that the report was false and no Indians came to disturb 
the frightened settlers. 

Reed's numerous journeys throughout the Trempealeau coun- 
try in quest of furs made him familiar with all of its streams, 
its ranges of hills, its numerous valleys as well as its woodland 
haunts and expanses of rolling wild grassland and marshes. 
Indeed he learned the country as thoroughly as a Mississippi 
River pilot learns the river, and was able to make serviceable 
use of his knowledge of the trails, the short cuts, the passes, and 
the divides. 

"We were following along a range of hills one day mounted 
on our ponies, ' ' said Antoine Grignon, ' * Reed, his son John, and 
and myself. It was past noon and we were getting mighty 
hungry. As we came over a hog's back and neared a rocky 
peak. Reed pointed down a valley and said, 'boys, this is the 
nearest way to Beaver Creek where we can go and catch some 
trout for dinner.' We gladly turned our ponies toward the 
valley, and in a short time came to the creek. Reed cut a small 
pole and took from his pocket a fishline and hook and after 

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catching some grasshoppers for bait started to fish. Inside of 
half an hour we had all the trout we needed for dinner, and cut- 
ting some forked sticks to hold them, we built a fire and broiled 
them. It was a splendid meal, and I believe that is the best way 
to cook fish — all you want is a little salt." 

As a trapper Reed could not be excelled. He caught all va- 
rieties of the fur bearing animals which at that time abounded 
in this region such as the muskrat, mink, marten, otter, rac- 
coon, and beaver, but made a special effort to get beaver. 

Late one afternoon in 1863 Reed came to my father's house 
on foot and said his pony was mired in a marsh just over the 
hill from our place. My father secured the help of two neigh- 
bors and in company with Reed went over the hill to help extri- 
cate it. The men worked hard for nearly an hour, and suc- 
ceeded in getting the pony out without injuring it. On the 
pony's back was a large pack of beaver pelts and traps. "When 
the men reached our home it was dark and Reed remained all 
night. My father offered him a bed but he preferred to sleep 
on the floor, with his pack of furs for a pillow and a blanket 
spread over him. Early in the morning he departed for his 
home in the Little Tamarack. 

Throughout the upper Trempealeau Valley at this time Reed 
was known as Trapper Reed, and often the remote settler would 
see his solitary figure, mounted on his pony, winding along the 
liills or threading his way through some woody solitude over 
the unblazed trail to the haunts of the beaver. 

While living in the Little Tamarack Reed had two hunting 
dogs of which he was very fond. One day vv^hile hunting with 
them near the present town of Dodge they came upon a panther 
and chased it into the bluffs, Avhere it turned and offered fight. 
The dogs flew at it and although they fought furiously the pan- 
ther seemed to be getting the best of them, and had one of the 
dogs nearly disabled when Reed came up. He did not dare use 
his rifle for fear of Avounding his dogs and yet he was bound to 
help them ; so, drawing his tomahawk he entered the fray, work- 
ing his way into the fighting mass as best he could and at length 
by a well directed blow succeeded in killing the panther. The 
wounded dog recovered and lived to join in many a subsequent 
hunt. 

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James Allen Reed 



James Reed was a mau of medium height, with broad shoul- 
ders and a large chest; his complexion was florid, and his hair 
light brown, almost a sandy hue, while his eyes w^ere a grayish 
blue. He was a quick, active man, alert and ready for any 
emergenc}'. He often dressed like the Indians with a blanket 
thrown over his shoulders and fastened around his waist with 
a belt. In disposition he was kind and genial and he w^as an 
accommodating and friendly neighbor. 

After the death of his wife Reed lived alone in his log cabin 
in the Little Tamarack. He still made journeys on his pony 
up the Trempealeau Valley on hunting and trapping expedi- 
tions, and continued his backwoods life until a year before his 
death, when the increasing infirmities of age caused him to 
abandon his favorite vocation. He then lived with his son John 
for a time, and during his last illness stayed at the home of his 
old friead and neighbor, Charles H. Perkins, where he died in 
June, 1873. 

He had been such a man as the frontier demanded ; he under- 
stood the Indians, and dealt with them kindly or severely as 
occasion demanded ; while his firmness and fairness won for him 
the respect of all his associates. 

Perhaps a future generation will build a monument to this 
romantic character. If so I hope it will be erected on old Lib- 
erty Peak, and Avill represent Reed mounted on his pony, wnth 
his rifle across the pommel of his saddle, looking out upon the 
peaceful bosom of the Mississippi, where the scenes of his event- 
ful life were enacted. Such a monument, expressive of the pio- 
neer hunter and instinct with the spirit of a departed age, would 
fittingly grace the noble crest of Trempealeau's venerable bluff. 



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